Þingvellir National Park – on the Golden Circle route
When I travelled to Iceland for the first time in 2010, this was the place that, above all others, I had yearned to visit for so long. The geology here is extraordinary, but more than anything else I wanted to ‘taste’ the unique atmosphere of this place. Standing where the most powerful decisions in the land had been made since the year 930 CE was an incredible moment, one that literally moved me to tears.
All of Iceland’s important legal verdicts and laws were pronounced here, including the country’s remarkably peaceful conversion from Paganism to Christianity. I can only begin to imagine the drama of this occasion, when both sides had arrived armed for battle. The pagan law speaker, Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson, is said to have sat in contemplation for a long time. He then invited the leader of the Christian men to declare the law on behalf of everyone, which led to a unique compromise, and bloodshed was avoided. The Icelanders would in future be Christian but Paganism could be practiced in private.
Why is it called Þingvellir?
Þing means assembly, parliament or congress, and the meaning of vellir is plains or fields. So Þingvellir is parliament plains or fields. The English spelling is Thingvellir, which reflects the ‘th’ sound of ‘þ’. In this blog, I use both spellings interchangeably.
Why did the Vikings choose this place for their annual assembly?
A little before the year 930 CE, the population of Iceland had grown a lot and it was decided a central point of assembly, or Alþing, was necessary. The location chosen had to possess a few important attributes: accessibility for people travelling in summer from all regions, sufficient space for a large assembly, and also enough food and water to nourish a lot of people for a couple of weeks. Crowds of people came to pursue issues of law and governance, to trade, and also to socialize. The beginnings of many a romantic feeling had its origin at the Alþing. Þingvellir was a good fit with these requirements.
Geology of Thingvellir – The North Atlantic Rift
The tectonic facts of Thingvellir are pretty amazing. Iceland sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, created by the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates moving apart. This feature, which gave rise to Iceland around 16.5 million years ago, runs right through Þingvellir. The plates continue to move apart by about an inch (2.4 cm) per year.
Things to do at Þingvellir?
Explore! There is plenty to do in addition to contemplating Icelandic history and admiring the tectonic features and picturesque vegetated scenery. So let’s take a brief look at some of the fascinating options on offer at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, which can also claim the distinction of being Iceland’s first designated national park.
The Þingvellir lake, Þingvallavatn, is the largest natural body of water in Iceland as well as being seriously picturesque. The spring-fed lake is surrounded by an abundance of shrubs, ferns, trees and wildflowers. The surface area of 20,757 acres (84,000 sq mtrs) induces a feeling of calm serenity around the freshwater lake. When the area is dressed in a shimmering coat of frost or fresh snow, Þingvallavatn presents the perfect Christmas card image.
Silfra is a stunningly beautiful world class diving site situated in between the diverging tectonic plates at the edge of the Þingvellir lake. Exploring the azure blue scenery of the four areas of Silfra is a very special experience. The underwater visibility is unrivalled.
Almannagjá is the rugged cliff of the gorge between the two continents. As you walk the major pathway through Þingvellir, you are within touching distance of it. Almannagjá is the upper outer rim of the North American tectonic plate.
Walking path between tectonic plates
Lögberg, the Law Rock, is the place where the lögsögumaður, or Law Speaker, stood to proclaim and recite the law. Marked by a flag, and with the cliff of Almannagjá creating a grand backdrop, this was a dramatic place, as well as being the place where pivotal decisions were made.
Peningagjá literally means the money gorge! The official name of this section of the fault is Nikulásargjá. When the bridge was built, people began casting coins into the water below.
Þingvellir Church is a beautiful wooden church, built in 1859, on the site of a much older church. The first Christian church in Iceland was built here at the behest of King Ólafur Tryggvason of Norway in around 1000 CE.
Öxaráfoss is a low but enchanting waterfall. The Öxará river cascades over the Almannagjá cliff, tumbling into the boulder strewn pool below. Very popular with Icelanders and really worth a look.
The view of Öxarárfoss Waterfall
The Prime Minister’s summer residence at Þingvellir is Þingvellirbær. This elegant white house with five gables stands next to the church.
Drekkingarhylur is the drowning pool! It always amuses me to bring friends here. Having told them that Iceland is a very peaceful country, I then go on to say that this is where they drowned the women, something that always raises a few eyebrows. When the death penalty was introduced in the 16th century, men were hanged and women were drowned.
Þingvellir National Park – where to eat and facilities
The Visitor Centre sells souvenirs as well as providing information on hiking trails, horse riding, camping, angling and Silfra. Light refreshments are available from their cafeteria.
The Heart of Iceland Exhibition is in the Visitor Centre, and a small fee is charged for entry to the exhibition.
The Visitor Centre car park, P1, is very close to the Hakið viewing point.
Toilets are free.
Where is Þingvellir?
Þingvellir is on the Golden Circle, 28.33 mi (45.6 km) from Reykjavík. Take the Ring Road (Roads 49 and 1) north to Mosfellsbær, then continue on Road 36.
How far is Þingvellir from Geysir and Gullfoss?
Þingvellir is 37.5 mi (60.35 km) from Geysir, and 43.5 mi (70 km) from Gullfoss.
Gullfoss and Geysir are just a few miles apart. The Golden Circle is 190 mi (305.77 km) returning via the southern route through Selfoss and Hveragerði.
When is Þingvellir open?
All the time. The Visitor Centre is open from 09:00 to 18:00.
How to get to Þingvellir
Hire a car and drive yourself. A private Golden Circle tour with Iceland Highlights is a fabulous way to see Þingvellir (Thingvellir), Gullfoss and Geysir.
