Most people think of Iceland as a stunning land blessed with glaciers and incredible volcano-generated scenery – and it is truly a land shaped by the forces of fire and ice. The existence of a variety of stunning caves does not spring to mind so readily. Yet, Iceland has much to offer those who want to indulge in subterranean exploration. Many caves are quite close to Reykjavík, and a couple are incredibly near, such as the famous Leiðarendi by Hafnarfjörður and Maríuhellar in Heiðmörk.
Most Icelandic caves are of volcanic origin, however, such commonality of origin doesn’t mean they are very similar. Caverns with a tremendous variety of textures, colors, structures and dimensions await you. One featured cave is a surreal and sparkling ice cave in Vatnajökull. Hella and Laugarvatnshellir are both man-made, and the latter was lived in comparatively recently. No, I haven’t taken leave of my senses, since there is ample evidence of this within the 20th Century.
Raufarhólshellir
This is Iceland’s fourth largest lava tube cave, with a length of over 4,460 ft (1,360 m), 98 ft (33 m) width, average height of 33 ft (10 m), and with openings to the sky, there is an airy and expansive feel. Formed 5,200 years ago by the Leitahraun eruption, Raufarhólshellir is situated around 25 mi (40 km) from Reykjavík. Road 39 – GPS: 63.940241; -21.397182.
This is a spectacular cave and visitors are astonished by the rainbow of colors on display. In addition to sheer wonder, many experience déjá vu – scenes of the 2014 movie, Noah, were shot here. Guided tours are offered, with or without transport from the capital. Lighting and some walkways have been installed, so it is easy for anyone in reasonably good condition. Raufarhólshellir promises you a gentle and fascinating introduction to Icelandic cave exploration.
From the meeting point:
With a pick-up in Reykjavik:
The Vatnjökull Ice Cave
Few experiences in life are more magical than visiting a stunning and glittering ice cave in Vatnajökull, one of Europe’s largest glaciers. I promise, you will feel like a character in CS Lewis’s Narnia stepping through the wardrobe. You enter a startling world, composed entirely of ice. An amazing array of blue shades contrasting beautifully with bright white, will enfold you. Some ice shimmers gloriously, and the varying levels of opacity will amaze you. Be sure to have plenty of camera battery – batteries deplete fast in cold conditions.
Each spring the old cave disintegrates and meltwater draining through the glacier fashions a new one. Thus, it is only possible to visit from September to March. It is unsafe to venture onto the glacier or enter an ice cave without a guide, so you must take a tour. One of the tours is operated from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Café car park, located 233 mi (375 km) from the capital (GPS: 64.048523; -16.179245). The second one is at Skaftafell Visitor Centre, situated 201 mi (324 km) from Reykjavík (GPS: 64.016655; -16.966244).
From Jökulskárlón Glacier Lagoon:
From Skaftafell:
Viðgelmir
Formed in the four-year-long eruption that produced the vast Hallmundarhraun lava field in about 900 CE, this cave has the best preserved lava formations of any in Iceland. A few of these are troll-like in shape, reminding us of the lava field’s namesake, Hallmundar, the troll in Grettis Saga. Age of Saga items found in the cave are preserved in the National Museum of Iceland.
Vastness is one of Viðgelmir’s claims to fame, and it is known as Iceland’s mightiest cave. It is 5,200 ft (1,585 m) long, with the largest passageway being 51.8 ft (15.8 m) high and 54.1 ft (16.5 m) wide. Visitors are equipped with head torches, allowing them to fully appreciate the wonderful features, which include stalagmite clusters.
Viðgelmir is located beyond Borgarfjörður, close to Fljótstunga, 84 mi (135 km) from Reykjavík (Google Maps: 64°45’11.6″N 20°48’06.7″W).
Leiðarendi
This cave, in the lava that surrounds Hafnarfjörður, is a 2,953 ft (900 m) circular lava tube that is renowned for its array of stalactites, stalagmites, and a plethora of rock formations.
There is so much to intrigue the visitor, including Icelandic folklore stories about the huldufólk, the hidden or subtle world beings who are reputed to inhabit this area. The name Leiðarendi, meaning journey’s end, or end of the road, tells a story. The discoverers of the cave found the skeleton of a sheep that met its end in the cave.
Maríuhellar
These small but charming lava tube caves are fabulous for those like to explore without a guide. There are three caves to enjoy, of which Urriðaskotshellir is the largest and most impressive, but you do need a torch to explore its far reaches properly and safely. The smaller caves are very pretty with verdant moss covering craggy boulders and interesting lava forms. Dress for the outdoors with sturdy footwear suitable for rough terrain. It can be slippery so do take care.
Maríuhellar is situated in Heiðmörk, at the border of Urriðakot and Vífilsstaðir, about 8 mi (13 km) from Reykjavík. The designated car park is reached via Road 408 (Heiðmerkurvegur). GPS: 64.071702; -21.892503.
The Cave People – Man-Made Caves
Some say the two Laugarvatnshellir caves were built by Irish monks who resided temporarily in Iceland before it was permanently settled around 872 CE. Shepherds and their flocks used them as shelters, until reports of ghosts somewhat put them off.
In 1910 a couple, Indriði Guðmundsson and Guðrún Kolbeinsdóttir, set up home in the cave, and in 1918 another couple did likewise – both couples making a living from the nature around them. Today, the caves are absolutely charming, and a tour with the company who take care of them will give you a unique insight into rural life and the ingeniousness of Icelandic people. I think it is wonderful to see how things were in times that are remembered by our grandparents or great grandparents.
The Cave People are located between Laugarvatn and Þingvellir. Tour details and a map can when clicked on the “explore” button.
The Caves of Hella
These caves are also man-made, with their origin thought to be prior to the 9th century. If so, that would make them contenders for being the oldest archeological remains in Iceland. They are known to have been used as shelters, dwellings and stores, and they are an important part of Iceland’s cultural heritage. Four caves are now renovated and open for viewing and their caretaker-guides love to bring old stories to life.
Situated 57 mi (91.6 km) from Reykjavík in a southerly direction, just off Road 1, at Hella. Tour information and a map can be found here.
Thrihnjukagigur Cave – Þríhnúkagígur volcano
Into the volcano! Imagine your excitement as a ‘miner’s lift’ takes you down into the magma chamber of the Þríhnúkagígur volcano. The descent is greater than the height of the Statue of Liberty. The magma chamber is so vast it could accommodate three basketball courts. The colors are especially impressive, especially jewel-bright blues and greens. I promise you this is an absolute stunner!
Þríhnúkagígur last erupted 4000 years ago, thus, it is safely dormant! I advise dressing for the weather, with sturdy footwear – there is a 20-minute walk from the car park.
Situated 13 mi (20 km) from Reykjavík in the Bláfjöll area, Þríhnúkagígur means ‘three peaks crater, and you will see those on the horizon as you approach.
Vatnshellir Cave
This lava tube was formed around 8,000 years ago in a volcanic eruption from the Purkhólar craters in Snæfellsjökull National Park, close to the village of Arnarstapi.
When you enter the cave, restful darkness and the beauty of silence will surround you, perhaps drawing forth thoughts of mythical places. In reality, you are not many miles from Snæfellsjökull, the glacier Jules Verne chose as the entrance to the center of the earth, in his novel, Journey to the Center of the Earth. As you begin to explore, the beam of your torchlight will highlight the autumn color palette for which Vatnshellir is renowned – an array of rusts, reds, golds, yellows and even vibrant green really bring the place alive. The cave is 656 ft (200 m) long, descending to a depth of 114 ft (35 m), and along the way you will see crazily shaped stalactites and stalagmites.
Lofthellir
Entering this lava tube cave is like entering the beautiful abode of an ethereal ice maiden. This cavern contains magnificent natural and wonderfully shaped ice sculptures, the most impressive of any known to exist in an Icelandic cave, formed by continual dripping over many centuries. These mystical ice-forms are enhanced by the presence of variously-hued colors in the cave ‘walls’, including soft rose-pinks, all generated naturally by different mineral residues. With a length of 1,214 ft (370 m), height of up to 49 ft (15 m), and greatest width of 49 ft (15 m), there is a cathedral-like ambience, inspiring great reverence for the beauties that are all around you – and perhaps a prayer of thanks to whatever deity is close to your heart, or simply to life itself for allowing you the opportunity to witness such wonders.
Lofthellir, situated in the Búrfellshraun lava field in the Mývatn area of North Iceland, was formed around 3,500 years ago. Tours commence from Reykjahlíð village.
Exploring the cave is not difficult, but there are sections, especially in the lead-up to the entrance, that require reasonable agility. Naturally, you will need to be comfortable traversing icy surfaces.
Lofthellir tour in a shared group:
Lofthellir tour in a private group:
The formation of lava tube caves
Lava tubes are formed when the surface of a lava flow cools and slows, whilst faster flowing lava continues to move beneath it. This effectively puts a ‘lid’ on the lava beneath, and it gradually solidifies more, when it forms a lava tube. Farther distant from the eruption vent, un-channeled lava spreads out, forming pāhoehoe flows, and as these cool and harden they form a barrier to their own supply source, resulting in lava tubes. Pāhoehoe flows also produce smooth ropy lava, which often cracks into vertical columns, and so this feature is sometimes seen in the vicinity of lava tube caves.