Landmannalaugar is one of the most magical and breathtaking places in the highlands of Iceland, located in the heart of the southern rift zone. A place where its beauty cannot be compared. From the colorful mountains to the steam clouds flowing up to the surface from great depths below your feet. In Landmannalaugar, these two pentominoes are very much related. This area is an extensive ancient volcanic system called Torfajökull which spans over 200 squad kilometers (77 square miles) in diameter. With the center of it being roughly at the Hrafntinnusker pass. The volcanism in this area is one of the oldest in the country, actively spanning the last 800,000 years.
What makes Landmannalaugar so unique?
Hundred of thousands of years ago this stratovolcano erupted so much material that it collapsed back onto itself, creating the present-day caldera ring around Landmannalaugar. The rocks that have erupted from this volcanic system are the most acidic in Iceland, a rhyolite rock type called liparite. This is what creates the pale-colored mountains in this area. Over time, the geothermal system (chemical erosion), natural erosion, and ice has weathered the hillsides into the wonderfully colorful landscapes they are today. The mountain’s chemical composition is altered into talc and clays from the steam, which makes some of them look like a rainbow of colors. Since the big eruption, many smaller eruptions have occurred scaring the landscape with blackened (basalt and obsidian) lava flows.
You will not see a single tree in the highlands. Due to the extreme winds and weather all living things grow very close to the ground. It may not looks like much, but if you look closely you will see mossy lava fields and grassy meadows hidden between the mountains. If you are lucky you may even see an Arctic fox run by you.
Landmannalaugar is best known as the starting point of the famous Laugavegur hiking trail, which takes you over 54 km (33,5 miles), a four-day, hiking trail through the extraordinary volcanic system of the ancient caldera of the Torfajökull volcano. With its very own geothermal pool to bathe in at the beginning of your wonderful adventures. While staying here you can choose from many other delightful and phenomenal hiking trails. If you are going up just for a day trip or planning to stay the week, there are many magical activities with stunning views.
The highlights of Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar is a playground for all that love the great outdoors. With the boundless diversity of geological phenomenons. One can come to visit the steaming hot springs, fresh glacial rivers, fields of unique flora, obsidian lava fields, canyons, volcanoes, and the always-changing rhyolitic mountains. Once the snow melts and bad weather lessens, in the summer months, one can choose from many different adventures as well. It is most popular among tourists and locals alike, either seeking a day romp around or a camping trip for a few days. Landmannalaugar recently is commonly known as an informal base camp for the Laugavegur hiking trail from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk.
At the campgrounds, Ferðafélag Íslands (The Icelandic Touring Association, FÍ), has a service center located right at the toe of the great Laugahraun lava field. There you can find a well-marked campground, toilet and shower houses, tents for cooking and gathering, and washing facilities. In addition, FÍ offers huts at Landmannalaugar and all the designated stops along the Laugavegur trail. These huts are equipped with bunk beds for individuals to rent out as an alternative to camping. It is best to prebook well in advance and can be done so at Ferðafélag Íslands website.
Beautiful view on a hike from Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar and driving instructions
Landmannalaugar is located within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve which is over 100 thousand acres in size in the southern Icelandic Highlands. Established as a nature reserve to protect the sensitive and mystical wilderness. The highland road Fjallbak Nyrðri will take you through most of the reserve and is maybe one of the more accessible Highland roads. Accessible only by dirt mountain roads, the terrain can be rugged and the weather can be very unpredictable. It is open from the middle of June to the end of September, but depending on the year the Highland roads could open as late as the middle of July. It is required to rent a 4×4 vehicle if you intend to drive and mountain roads are labeled as F roads on the map. As mentioned before, the Icelandic Highlands are very sensitive and anyone intending to drive should know that driving outside the designated roads is strictly forbidden.
There are two main entrances to Landmannalaugar (Land of human pools) when driving from Reykjavík. The most common and shorter way is to make your way to Landmannaleið or Dómadalsleið. Nr. F225. Nearly a three to four-hour drive depending on your speed and skills driving off-road, there are about 48km of dirt roads to drive and 2-3 rivers to cross. The second way and less common driving route to Landmannalaugar is a more northern track called Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri Nr. F208. It usually opens earlier than Landmannaleið in the early summer but is a longer driving distance. And driving on these rough, pothole, rutted roads, and some unabridged rivers can take longer than you expect.
Depending on the time of year and the rainfall that year, the river’s depth and speed change constantly. A vehicle with high clearance is very beneficial, but it is recommended to always check the rivers before crossing to make sure you will cross safely. It is also very important to check road conditions. It is not unheard of to have snow storms in the Highlands during the shoulder seasons. The best resource for weather, driving conditions, and closures is www.road.is.
Self-driving to Landmannalaugar is not for the faint of heart, but thankfully there are many other options for making your way to this amazing spot. There are some great options for a transfer to and from, either private or on a shared bus. And to get the most out of your trip there is a great option for a guided trip of your own making. You choose the activity and a knowledgeable guide will transfer you and hike alongside you for the day.
- Private Landmannalaugar transfer
- Shared bus transfer to/from Landmannalaugar
- Privately Guided Landmannalaugar Day tour
- Shared group Landmannalaugar Day tour
Laugavegur Trail
This four-day hiking trail between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk is maybe one of the most popular hiking trails in Iceland. With its incomparable beauty, you will venture through rhyolite mountains, obsidian lava flows, steamy hot springs through rolling hills, past a glacier, down to a giant lake, through rivers, over a black sandy desert, and ending in a luxuriant forest in the shadow of a glacier.
One of the campsites (Hrafnkell) on the Laugavegur trail
There are six camping grounds and cabins, provided by the Icelandic Touring Association, FÍ, along the trail. It is important to keep in mind that it is prohibited to camp outside the designated areas within the Nature Reserve. It is important to reserve and check the availability of space in the huts or campgrounds before setting out on your hike. Also, when preparing for your hike, it is important to bring supportive and sturdy hiking boots and gear, along with wind and waterproof outer shells. The trail is very remote and barren of supplies between the FÍ campsites. Some more information about the specific campsites and the resources they provide can be found on the Ferðafélag Íslands website.
Directional sign showing the distance to the next campsite
Day activities in Landmannalaugar
Combined with the amazing views Landmannalaugar has to offer, there is a handful of awe-inspiring day hikes to choose from. Starting from the Landmannalaugar campgrounds, you will see the Laugahraun (Pool lava) lava field right beside the campground. This hike takes you through a jagged and winding path in a magical obsidian and rhyolite lava flow. If you follow this track, in the distance you will see a pale mountain with strips of color sticking out from the rest. This mountain is called Brennisteinsalda, and if you want a longer hike, to the top is a 6.5km hike (4 miles) one way. Once at the top, you will see a panoramic view of the Laugahraun lava flow, as well as an enormous portion of the Torfajökull system. There are many ways to reach Brennisteinsalda (Sulfer wave) and trails can be combined into a loop.
Other great day hikes include Bláhnjúkur (blue peak), a beautiful loop up the side of an ancient volcano that has been altered into an amazing blue-colored mountain built up by ash and lava layers. Ljótipollur (Ugly puddle) is an explosive crater and crater lake within a 4-hour hike from Landmannalaugar. Despite the name, it is a mystically high-rimmed deep blue lake. The crater’s edges are a deep red rusted-iron color interbedded with black basalt and covered in patches of bright green moss. This lake is also a popular angling spot for locals for some excellent trout fishing. And after your day of exploring, I advocate taking a dip into Landmannalaugar’s natural geothermal pool located next to the campsite.
Navigation in the Highlands
It is best to pre-plan your trip and have some form of guiding map (paper or digital) with you. There is little service in the highlands and no electricity to charge divides. I recommend bringing an extra battery and downloading maps if you plan to use your phone for navigation.
A great resource to check for trail routes in Landmannalaugar on Alltrails website.
Written by Zena Severin – Geologist in Iceland
