The fingers and thumbs of my two hands are way too few to count the number of visits I have made to North Iceland. From the raw power of tumultuous Dettifoss to the serene vistas around Mývatn lake, the city delights of Akureyri, the mesmeric lava formations of Dimmuborgir and the stunning drama of Ásbyrgi, the horseshoe shaped canyon, you will be bewitched. You simply have to visit Húsavík, the fishing town where whales and whale-watching are now king. If you crave activity, winter skiing, horseback riding, hiking trails, warm swimming pools and other action pursuits are on offer. With so much to do and see, I can promise you your time in the north will be varied, entrancing, and if you so desire, action-packed.
Dettifoss Waterfall
Dettifoss is reputedly the waterfall with the 2nd greatest flow volume in Europe at 400 m3/s. The mighty glacial river, Jökulsá á Fjöllum, gathers force as it tumbles from its source on Vatnajökull, ultimately running into the Greenlandic Sea. Magnificent Dettifoss is situated within the craggy canyon of Jökulsárgljúfur, where it crashes through the 326 ft (100 m) wide falls as it drops 147.6 ft (45 m). Stand in wonder and feel the spray in the air as you witness the rawness of Icelandic nature. You can hear the falls from the parking lot, a few minutes-walk away, but the moment you step out you will feel their power echoing through the land under your feet.
Ásbyrgi
Ábyrgi is a horseshoe shaped canyon that is 11,483 ft (3.5km long) and over 3,281 ft (1km) wide, with ‘walls’ that rise to 328 ft (100 m). Thanks to re-forestation projects, trees are plentiful and raven, ptarmigan and other species of bird have habitats here. Traveling from Akureyri, the shortest route to Ásbyrgi is Highway 1 in a north-easterly direction, turning left onto Highway 85 shortly after Ljósavatn (lake). You then turn right where Gljúfastofa, the Ásbyrgi Visitor Centre is signposted, taking Highway 861. The distance is 85.75 mi (138 km). The map coordinates are 66.0178° N, 16.5055°W.
Ásbyrgi is a poetic place, and not only because it inspired Einar Benediktsson’s poem, Summer Morning at Ásbyrgi. The combination of the rough canyon, and the feeling of a gentle oasis beside Botnstjörn, the pond in the depths of its forested hillside, is so inspiring. There are pathways to be explored (with a guide if you wish), and it is lovely to sketch, paint or take photographs. I recommend you bring a beaker or bottle so you can sample the water from the stream. I have never tasted such fresh water. The Ásbyrgi camping site offers somewhere local to stay.
In summer, the gentleness of the climate in the canyon supports the growth of wild flowers and the presence of butterflies. An outdoor dance floor was built here – I bet some of Iceland’s older citizens can tell some wonderful stories.
Ásbyrgi was formed by a couple of catastrophic glacial floods, the first at the end of the Ice Age. Giant ice dams broke high up on Vatnajökull, unleashing torrents of unimaginable force which tore out vast segments of rock.
Mývatn Lake
The dreamy landscapes around this shallow volcanic lake are among the most picturesque in Iceland. With a surface area of 14 mi² (37 km²), many different vistas are revealed as you drive around it.
Reykjahlíð is the largest settlement at Mývatn, but my favorite place to call in for coffee is Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum at Ytri-Neslönd. Other attractions in the area include the Skútustaðagígar pseudo-craters at Skútustaðir. The Hverfjall volcanic crater can be found to the east of the lake. This huge explosion crater, over 0.62 mi (1 km) wide, gives the feeling of a lunar landscape. When you just want to chill, Mývatn Nature Baths will appeal. Imagine relaxing in mineral-rich water that is virtually blood-heat, as lava scenery surrounds you.
Krafla Volcano
The giant caldera of Krafla is 0.62 miles wide (10 km) and views of it dominate the area. The Víti pool, which sits at the top, is the crowning glory and well worth the uphill journey.
Krafla was formed in the Krafla-Námafjall fissure eruption swarm from 1724 to 1729. It is a broad shield volcano on what is known as the ‘Icelandic hotspot’, with volcanism further supported by the divergent movements of the Eurasian and North-American tectonic plates in the area. The lava reached the northern shore of Mývatn, covering around 13 mi2 (34 km2).
Námaskarð Geothermal Area (Námafjall)
The ‘eggy’ smells that greet you, just a short drive from Mývatn, will add to the impression you are on a different planet! Imagine earth colored, vividly red, green, yellow and orange surfaces around hot springs, mud pots and steaming fumaroles. Following the designated pathways will keep you safe as you explore this otherworldly place – have your camera ready!
This area was formed by the Krafla-Námafjall volcanic system, which supports the current geothermal features manifesting here.
Goðafoss Waterfall
I think these falls on the Skjálfandafljót River are the most graceful in Iceland. Not large but perfectly formed, they descend 39.3 ft (12 m) and stretch across an expanse 98.4 ft wide (30 m). Goðafoss means Waterfall of the Gods. It is said the last Pagan leader, Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, hurled his Pagan idols into the falls when Iceland became Christian in 1000 CE. You can get a great view of Goðafoss from Highway 1 – but you simply must stop!
Dimmuborgir
Dimmuborgir is known as the Dark Castles, not least because its volcanic caves and crazy volcanic structures resemble the ruins of a city. There is even a formation called Kirkjan (the church), because it so resembles one. The story of the thirteen Yule Lads who emerge from their home at Dimmuborgir each Christmas is a legend of the Icelanders. Generations of children have been enthralled, and a little scared by the daring-do and tormenting ways of the lads. Fearsome trolls are said to reside in the caves here. Explore with a sense of wonder and maybe you will sense hidden people in your midst.
Dimmuborgir was formed when the top crust of a vast lava tube collapsed, leaving the pillars of lava which cooled very swiftly. That lava tube was created in a large eruption of the Þrengslaborgir and Lúdentsborgir craters, around 2,300 years ago.
Húsavík
According to Landnámsbók, the Book of Settlements, this place was the first to be settled in Iceland, when Garður Svarvarsson spent the winter there in 870 CE. It was a fishing town for many centuries, but it is now the self-proclaimed ‘whale watching capital of Iceland’ – it can certainly boast an impressive number of sightings, including the blue whale. Around 2,300 people live in Húsavík today.
Whale watching and the Húsavík Whale Museum are the most popular attractions. Another claim to fame is the song, Húsavík, written for the film Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga. The distinctive wooden church is photogenic, and a choice of restaurants await visitors. The Geosea Geothermal Sea Baths, right at the ocean’s edge, is the newest attraction. Bathing in warm seawater, you feel so close to the ocean – if you get lucky you will see whales frolicking in Skjálfandi Bay.
Húsavík is 47 mi (75.7 km) from Akureyri (tunnel toll fee: 1500 ISK).
Akureyri
This city, known as the Capital of the North, was settled in the 9th century. Situated close to the apex of beautiful Eyjafjörður, the longest fjord in Iceland, people came and went. Danish merchants arrived in the 17th Century, and it became a permanent settlement in 1778. Back then, the population was just 12 persons! Nowadays, Akureyri is officially a city and has over 18,000 residents.
The first time I came, I walked into town from the airport, and the views were amazing. Exploring on foot then hanging out in one of the many cafés for refreshments is a fun way to get to know Akureyri. For all of the local history, you should visit Akureyri Museum. They have even added an entertainment section, so look out for any evening concerts. Daviðshús, the museum of local poet and writer, Davið Stefánsson, Nonni’s House, and the Akureyri Toy Museum and Laufás are all part of Akureyri Museum – one great ticket for 2,300 ISK and such a great way to bask in the folklore and atmosphere of the region. I also visit the Art Museum on Kaupvangstræti every year!
Hrísey Island
Situated in Eyjafjörður, Hrísey is the second largest island off the coast of Iceland, with a population of 120. It can be reached by a 15-minute ferry ride from Árskógssandur (1,700 ISK and half-price for children). Árskógssandur is 21.3 mi (34.3 km) from Akureyri.
Hrísey has been inhabited by fisherman since early times. It was such a prized location that it was claimed by Norwegian and then Swedish fisherman before reverting to the Icelanders! The island is a well-known bird watching location, with Ystabæjarland being a designated nature reserve and bird protection area. Summer tractor rides and The House of Shark Jörundur, a museum showing shark fishing history on Hrísey. People also come to hike, swim in the heated pool, do photography or art, or to relax. There is even a place called ‘The Energy Zone’ where energy arrives from Mount Kaldbakur – a nice spot whether you believe in these things or not.
Grimsey Island
This island, 40 km off the north coast of Iceland and inside the Arctic Circle, has long-since been populated by fisher-folk. Covering around 1.92 mi (5 km2), the island has about 61 permanent inhabitants who are outnumbered many times over by the birds. The game of chess took root on the island in the 1870s, and it remains a very popular pursuit. The most popular sight is the Monument to the Arctic Circle. There is also an indoor swimming pool and a church built from driftwood.
Flights from Akureyri to Grimsey are available and a ferry is operated from Dalvík. The ferry journey takes approximately three hours and an adult single-way ticket costs 4,000 ISK. Dalvík is located 26.5 mi (42.6 km) from Akureyri.
Kolugljúfur Canyon
Kolugljúfur Canyon (65.3325° N, 20.5699° W) is easily missed, but is just a short distance from Highway 1, not far from the town of Blönduós. Around 0.6 mi (1 km) in length and 82 ft (25 m) deep, the Víðidalsá river runs through the canyon and there are several stunning waterfalls. Collectively, the waterfalls are known as Kolufossar Falls, named after the giantess, Kola. You can reach Kolugljúfur by taking Highway 715 (Víðidalsvegur) from Highway 1, it is then 3.7 mi (6 km) to reach the parking lot.
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Written by Kay Tina Cook
