Christmas in Iceland is a magical time when the streets and windows are filled with lights, the sun rises above the horizon for only a few hours a day, and the long nights are made brighter with cheery folks and twinkling lights. And if you are lucky the mesmerizing aurora borealis dances in the sky above. Experiencing Christmas in Iceland as a foreigner has given me some new traditions that I love and some that I find just so very strange. Living with an Icelandic family the last few years I have found that Iceland’s advent is a lovely time filled with many traditions and events for the whole family.
What is Iceland’s Holiday advent?
Advent starts on the fourth Sunday prior to Christmas. Traditions of baking and cooking, socializing, Masses, and even traditional Christmas markets fill the weeks before the holiday. Advent is also a time filled with visits from the Yule Lads, also known as Icelandic Jólasveinar.
Who are the Yule Lads?
Iceland’s Jólasveinar or Santa Claus´s are nothing like the jolly, round-belly, ho-ho-ho Santa we all know. Yes, that plural was no mistake…in fact, there are thirteen of them and they are all brothers, known as the Yule Lads. The Yule Lads have not always been believed to be sweet Santa but more of an ogre with ill-will and mischievous reputations.
It has only been in the last century that the Yules have evolved into kindly fellows who come and visit homes bringing small gifts for children. The legend is if you leave your shoe near an open window, each night a Yule Lad will visit and leave gifts while you sleep. If you have been good that day, you will get a little present. If you have been naughty, you might get a potato or a piece of coal. Traditionally, each Yule Lad visits people’s home each night for the 13 days leading up to Christmas causing havoc and stealing. Here are their names and what misfortunes they might cause before Christmas.
On December 12th, the first Yule Lad to visit is Stekkjasaur (Sheep-Cote Clod). Known for his thirst for sheep milk, he would sneak into the sheep pens to suck the ewes. Though he was peg-legged and couldn’t bend his knees, this didn’t seem to stop him.
On December 13th, the next Lad to visit also had a fixation for milk. Giljagaur (Gully Imp) is said to have hid in a gully outside until the coast was clear and would sneak into the sheds to drink the froth from the top of the freshly filled milk buckets.
On the 3rd day of Christmas (December 14th) the Yule Lad Stúfur (Stubby) would visit. Being the smallest of the brothers, he would sneak into the farmhouses when no one was looking and eat any burnt remains from the dirty pots and pans.
Next is Þvörusleikir (Spoon Licker), who would visit on December 15th and though he is tall and skinny he would sneak in when the cook leaves the kitchen to snatch the wooden spoon and lick it clean.
On December 16th the devious brother Pottasleikir (Pot Licker) would come to snatch the bowls right off the table if you step away. Best to protect your fish soup!
The sixth Yule Lad on December 17th is Askasleikir (Bowl Licker), but not just any bowl. A wooden bowl with a lid that was traditionally used for all meals. He would hide under your bed to snatch the bowls to lick them clean before the dogs would get to the leftovers.
The Yule Lad that comes on December 18th is Hurðaskellir (Door Slammer), enjoying the sound of creaking hinges and slamming the doors.
On December 19th, the eighth Yule Lad is Skygrámur (Skyr Glutton). He would sneak into the barn and gobble up all the skyr. Yum! An Icelandic milk product similar to yogurt.
Following his earlier brothers, on December 20th, Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Snatcher) is known to sneak into the farmhouse. Creeping up into the rafters where the sausages are being smoked to feast upon them, being careful of the fire in the smoker below.
On December 21st, Maybe the most alarming of the brothers to visit is Gluggagægir (Window Peeper) A regular “peeping Tom,” who will look in your windows to see what valuables he can covet.
If the previous brother was not a strange one, the eleventh to visit, on the eve of December 22nd, is even more bizarre: Gáttaþefur (Door Sniffer). In it for the food, of course! His favorite smell is the frying of the laufabrauð. A tasty, thinly fried bread treat made around the holidays.
On December 23rd, the twelfth Yule Lad was a sly geezer. Known as Ketkrókur (Meat Hook) he would lower a hook down the chimneys of farmhouses and snatch up the juicy legs of lambs hanging up in the rafters for smoking.
The last Yule Lad to visit on December 24th, the night before Christmas is Kertasníkir (Candle Stealer). This rascal follows children and steals their new candles right from their hands. Traditionally made from tallow, the candles were a tasty treat for a hungry Lad.
Do you see a trend throughout the Yule Lads? Yes, food. These marvelous folklores and legends are a tell-tale of the society and lifestyle at that time. During the time the Yule Lad´s tale came to be, it was a time of great poverty. Many poor, and or homeless, would visit the farms in search of warmth and food during the long cold winter nights.
In modern times, they dress up in classic red and white suits and charm the locals at holiday events and gatherings. Usually making an appearance someplace on each of the 13 days before Christmas, and if you look closely, you can see holograms of them hiding throughout the city of Reykjavík. Along with their mother Grýla, father Leppalúði, and the Christmas cat.
What is Þorláksmessa?
On the 23rd of December, Þórláksmessa is a day to celebrate one of the two saints of Iceland, St. Þorlákur Skálholtsbiskup Þórhallsson. Old traditions where people gathered for a Winter Mass and cooked food together to celebrate this holy man. This day of Mass also coincides with the last day of Lent and gives double the reason to consume meat on this day.
In modern times people celebrate by cooking and eating fermented rotted Skate, a type of fish. The foul smell and strange texture make it only consumable with copious amounts of parsnips and butter and swallowed down by Icelandic brennivín.
After eating, the day is filled with last-minute shopping, activities, and preparation before the shops and Christmas markets. Drinking ale or hot cocoa and being merry. Also, on this day the families will put up and decorate the Christmas tree.
When does Christmas start in Iceland?
Unlike in most countries, Christmas in Iceland starts on December 24th at the stroke of 6 o’clock when the chimes of Hallgrimskirkja, the National Church, symbolize the beginning of Christmas. Broadcasted over the radio, people sit down for a lovely holiday meal and listen to the Christmas Mass and choir over the radio. This may be my favorite part of this day, yes because of the food.
Traditional Christmas meal
Early on Christmas Eve Day is when the real fun starts with the preparation of the meal. Roasting the traditional hangikjöt, meaning “hung meat”. The sweet smoked smell lofting through the house, covering up any remaining smell from the day before on Þórláksmessa. The same meat the Yule Lads were so fond of. This smoked leg of lamb is usually served with boiled potatoes in sweetened cream sauce, red pickled cabbage and a can of ORA peas, from an Icelandic cannery. Accessorized with the delicious laufabrauð and a tasty glass of jólaöl (christmas ale). My favorite holiday treat is the Laufabrauð or leaf-bread. The making of this tasty treat is enjoyed by the whole family. Coming together to cut out beautiful and intricate designs in the dough before deep-frying this thin flatbread-like treat.
Christmas Eve traditions
After the delicious Christmas Eve dinner, there is some time for some much-needed relaxation and usually last-minute gift wrapping. After the food is digested, families will gather around the Christmas tree to open gifts. Most will receive a new piece of clothing so as not to be eaten by the Christmas cat (Jólakötturin) and a book. Giving books is very popular, giving the newest titles that were recently released just before the holiday season. After dinner, in my experience, we all go to Christmas midnight Mass. Then when back home it is time for some traditional late-night hot chocolate, and we eat the homemade holiday cookies.
Christmas markets
While many major cities in Europe have an established Christmas market, Reykjavik has just recently started to host them, and they are definitely worth a visit!
They are usually small in size, but enough to get into the Christmas spirit. There you can buy hot chocolate, roasted sweet almonds, handmade crafts, and some other Icelandic treats.
There are three worth checking out. One is called Yule Town and it is located at Ingólfstorg square. Another famous one is in Heiðimörk, a forestry area near Reykjavík, where many locals purchase their Christmas trees. Finally, Jólaþorpið is in the town of Hafnarfjörður, located only 15 minutes away from Reykjavik´s downtown.
What happens on December 26th?
The Second day of Christmas is just as much of a holiday here as Christmas. Stores and most restaurants remain closed up. It is a day of rest when locals curl up close to the warm radiator and read their new books. But don´t fall asleep just yet, because at midnight bars and restaurants will open again for the second round of joyous celebration.
Are restaurants open on Christmas for dining?
Yes! Some restaurants remain open during Christmas. If you do come to Iceland during the Holidays and want to enjoy a delightful dinner out, check our restaurant list for open restaurants. It is important to book ahead of time just in case.
Thirteen days of Christmas
Christmas is not over after the 26th of December. In fact, there are 13 days of Christmas. Starting on Christmas Eve and lasting until January 6th, known as Þrettándinn, meaning “the thirteenth”. This splendid day is celebrated by gathering on Laugavegur, lighting torches and singing carols in the street, and finishing with bonfires and fireworks. The last day of Christmas is January 6th and it is a time of celebration and social gatherings, with everyone ready to go back to work the following day.
Thank you for reading this post and hope you enjoyed it. I hope you come to join us in the winter celebration this year!
Written by Zena Severin
